Understanding CO2 & Set-up Guide

In a planted aquarium, the CO2 aquarium kit is undoubtedly the most crucial ingredient. All aquatic plants require it for respiration and development, and it is utilized in a process called photosynthesis. Plants need a continual supply of CO2 during daylight hours or they will suffer. CO2 is combined with water and light energy to form oxygen and carbohydrates, which allows them to grow.

CO2 is obtained in enormous quantities by plants in the wild from the substrate (mud) and decaying plants. CO2, on the other hand, is extremely limited in an enclosed aquarium. When compared to nature, tap water is devoid of CO2, and plant degradation in an aquarium is low. This is why many aquarists have discovered that adding CO2 to their plants helps them grow much better and stronger.

Top tips:

1 hour before the lights go out, turn off your CO2. During the last hour of your photo session, there will be adequate CO2 in your tank for your plants. This will reduce your CO2 emissions.

Set the solenoid to turn on the CO2 1-3 hours before the lights turn on to begin with (may require a longer period in larger tanks). When the light time begins, the CO2 levels in your water will be raised up to the appropriate concentration for the plants. The beginning of the photo period is the most crucial moment for your plants to photosynthesize. At the start of the picture session, aim for a lovely green colour on your drop checker.

It’s possible that you’ll have to play with with your bubble count and CO2 on/off times. Because each tank is unique, variable rates of CO2 injection will be required to get a green colour on your drop checker.

It’s important not to pump too much CO2 at once, as this might kill your fish. Start low and gradually increase to the ideal amount for your fish and plants.

Before introducing fish to the aquarium, it is advised that you experiment with CO2 levels. This will keep the fish safe while you work out the’sweet spot’ with your CO2 injection.

 

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