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The bust line and connect it to the rest of the curve that we drew earlier on and the next thing i’m going to be doing is mark two inches above my bust line along the nipple point and then draw in the top curve of the bra now you want it to be able to cover your nipple but not too high or over your chest or over your bust so i’m just connecting it to the one inch point on the center front through the two inch point on the nipple point and then i am going to be marking roughly 2.5 inches downwards which is going to be the width of the top and or the top side of the bracket now by doing that we’ve created the seam dividing.

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The cup now i went ahead to reshape the arm curve inwards by about two inches so it does not eat too much into your underarm now the next thing i’m doing here is i’m shaping the cups on the top and the bottom edge i’m shaping it by about 0.75 inches and i’m just doing that for the top and the bottom end and i’m going to be grabbing my pattern master and drawing in many dots in quotes and this is going to help to make black and red lingerie the cup to fit nice and snug around your bust so once you’ve done this for the top and the bottom we have the shape of the cup done and dusted now i’m going to go ahead to extend the nipple point half an inch upwards and downwards and this with what would actually make the bra fit comfortably around your bust without pressing your boobs too flat so you want to draw like a curved shape upwards and downwards so you have an extension that would allow your boobs to sit comfortably so i’m just using the highlighter pen to do this.

So i’m not confused on which line i should keep and which i should not use so i went ahead to use some colored pens for clarity so you guys know which is which and the areas colored in green are the areas for the top of the bra and the areas in blue are for the bottom cups of the bra so now once you’re done with that the next thing i’m going to be doing is a drawing in the side band and i’m marking a quarter of my underbust measurements sideways like so connecting it to that quarter inch of the bust line and then i’m going to be drawing a line connecting the set connecting them sideways now the next.

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Thing i’m doing in here is i’m dropping the arm curve by about one inch from the side of the bra cups to the top like so and then i’m going to be marking a quarter of the underbust sideways so that helps to create the band that sits on the side of the bra now when drawing in the top you want to slant it downwards so that as it goes  lingerie towards the back it tapers down and you have a narrower center back edge than your side seam so this is what the final pattern looks like it took a lot of trial and error to be able to arrive at this and there is still a lot of room for improvement even at this point now if you’re happy with your pattern you know you can go ahead and trace all the different pieces that you need and i’m starting off by tracing off the top panel because for this one when you trace off to the point that you have your dots that goes through that middle point you have to go back to your plan and fold