Nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas, on the fertile banks of the mighty Brahmaputra, amidst lush tea gardens and ancient heritage sites, lies Assam — a land as rich in biodiversity as it is in handwoven traditions. Known for its wild silks and age-old sericulture practices, Assam is more than just a geographical location; it is a living, breathing storybook of silk.

Every village in this verdant state echoes the rhythmic beat of looms. Generations of families have kept alive a tradition that is both art and livelihood, culture and commerce, pride and purpose. Assam’s silks are not just exquisite fabrics—they are heirlooms of history, symbols of sustainability, and bearers of spiritual significance.

In this blog, we delve deep into the enchanting world of Assamese silk—its historical roots, timeless varieties, sustainable traditions, and the cultural heartbeat it represents.

A Page from History: The Origins of Assam’s Silk Legacy

Silk weaving in Assam dates back over 2,000 years. References in ancient texts like Kautilya’s Arthashastra (3rd Century BCE) praise the silk cloths from this region, describing them as “the colour of butter,” “as red as the sun,” and “of supreme quality.” These were not just poetic praises but indicators of a refined and flourishing silk industry.

Travellers and scholars like Huen Tsang and Banabhatta documented the silk route that wove through China, Tibet, and Burma into Assam, bringing sericulture and trade to this land. The cultural exchanges and knowledge that flowed along this ancient route shaped Assam’s identity as a silk-producing haven.

A key milestone in Assam’s silk saga is the emergence of Sualkuchi, often dubbed the “Manchester of Assam.” Established under King Dharma Pala of the Pala Dynasty in the 10th century, Sualkuchi was a designated weaving village. Today, it remains the nucleus of silk production, boasting over 25,000 active looms and producing nearly 6 million metres of silk each year.

The Timeless Trio: Muga, Eri & Pat Silks

Assam is unique in being the only state in India that produces all three indigenous silks—Muga, Eri, and Pat. Each of these silks has its own story, look, feel, and cultural significance.

🟡 Muga Silk: The Golden Glory of Assam

Muga silk is Assam’s crown jewel. Derived from the Antheraea Assamensis silkworm found only in Assam, it is known for its natural golden sheen, which intensifies with every wash—a rare and wondrous trait.

Its exclusivity and elegance have earned it a Geographical Indication (GI) tag. Often used in crafting the traditional Mekhela Chador, Muga silk is as valued in an Assamese bridal trousseau as gold ornaments. It embodies opulence, sanctity, and heritage.

• Texture: Glossy, smooth
• Color: Natural golden yellow
• Use: Bridal wear, ceremonial attire, heirlooms
• Cultural Note: Wearing Muga is often associated with social prestige.

🔴 Eri Silk: The Peaceful Fabric of Compassion

Known as the “Ahimsa Silk,” Eri silk is obtained from the Ailanthus Silkmoth after it naturally leaves its cocoon. This means no silkworms are harmed in the making, making it a cruelty-free and sustainable silk.

Its woolly texture, thermal insulation, and moisture-wicking qualities make it perfect for both winter and summer. Eri silk is gaining global admiration among ethical fashion advocates.

• Texture: Soft, warm, wool-like
• Color: Creamy to off-white
• Use: Stoles, shawls, jackets, all-season garments
• Sustainability: 100% biodegradable and cruelty-free

⚪ Pat Silk: Assam’s Elegant Mulberry Silk

Pat silk is obtained from silkworms that feed on mulberry leaves. It is also referred to as Mulberry Silk and is known for its lustrous finish, light texture, and high durability.

Due to the smaller population of mulberry-rearing silkworms in Assam, Pat silk is produced in lesser quantities, making it a rare luxury. It is commonly used in weaving the Mekhela Chador and traditional Assamese sarees.

• Texture: Fine, soft, lightweight
• Color: Naturally brilliant white or off-white
• Use: Formal wear, sarees, ceremonial fabrics

Life Beyond the Tea Estates: A Community of Weavers

Beyond its famed tea estates and wildlife sanctuaries, Assam nurtures an equally vibrant world of handlooms and sericulture. It is one of the few places in the world where silk cultivation and weaving remain a household-level, community-driven activity.

🔹 Sustainability at Its Core

From bamboo-framed looms to locally sourced natural dyes made of leaves, bark, and minerals, Assam’s silk industry is a shining example of low-impact, eco-conscious textile production.

Unlike mechanized silk factories, the Assamese method upholds traditional knowledge systems, maintains biodiversity, and ensures zero-waste production.

🔹 Women at the Loom

While men and women both participate in silkworm rearing, only women are allowed to weave, making it an inherently matrilineal craft in spirit.

Among the Bodo, Rabha, and Mishing tribes, weaving is considered sacred and tied to fertility. Many tribal beliefs even discourage men from touching the loom, believing it may compromise their masculinity.

This gendered artistry gives rise to a deeply emotional bond between the weaver and the fabric—a kind of spiritual storytelling through threads.

🔹 Social Customs in Threads

In Assam, every silk garment carries social significance. Whether it’s the ceremonial Mekhela Chador, festive sarees, or the elegant gamusa, the motifs, colors, and weaving patterns often reflect folklore, tribal identities, and regional customs.

These fabrics are not just worn—they’re inherited, worshipped, and preserved for future generations.

Silk’s Role in Assam’s Economy and Identity

Silk is not merely a cottage industry here—it is Assam’s largest traditional economic activity after tea. With thousands of families involved in sericulture and weaving, the silk sector has significantly empowered rural communities, especially women.

Government schemes and NGOs have increasingly supported this craft through training, GI protection, and international trade exposure.

The Kunbi Connection: Celebrating Ahimsa Silks

At Kunbi, we are proud to feature exclusive collections of Eri Silk, handwoven by artisan clusters from the villages of Assam. Each piece is not just a garment—it is a slice of heritage, a product of ethical fashion, and a narrative of resilience.

Our Ahimsa Silk range includes:

• Handwoven Eri Sarees
• Naturally dyed Eri stoles and dupattas
• Everyday sustainable fashion staples with a story

By supporting these weaves, we are not only promoting handloom heritage but also supporting artisan livelihoods, women empowerment, and sustainable fashion goals.

FAQs: Silk Stories from Assam

Q1. What makes Assamese silk unique from other types of Indian silk?

Assamese silk is unique for its varietal richness (Muga, Eri, Pat), sustainability, and deep cultural roots. It is also the only region that produces silk without harming silkworms (Eri Silk), and Muga is only found in Assam.

Q2. Is Muga silk really washable? Does it get shinier with time?

Yes! Muga silk is one of the rare silks that improves its luster after every wash, making it an heirloom-quality fabric.

Q3. What is the price range of authentic Assamese silk sarees?

Prices vary depending on the silk type and craftsmanship:

• Eri Silk Sarees: ₹2,000 to ₹8,000
• Pat Silk Sarees: ₹4,000 to ₹12,000
• Muga Silk Sarees: ₹10,000 to ₹60,000+

Q4. Is Eri Silk suitable for all weather?

Absolutely. Thanks to its thermal insulation and moisture-absorbing properties, Eri silk keeps you cool in summers and warm in winters.

Q5. How can I identify genuine Assamese silk?

Look for:

• GI tag or government authenticity labels
• Uneven, organic texture (especially in Muga and Eri)
• Natural dyes and handwoven irregularities
• Trusted sellers like artisan-led platforms or verified handloom stores like Kunbi

Q6. Is Assamese silk sustainable?

Yes. Assam’s silk production uses natural dyes, biodegradable fibers, and hand-operated looms, resulting in a low carbon footprint.

Conclusion: Threads of Time, Culture, and Consciousness

The story of silk in Assam is not just about fabric. It’s about culture, community, and continuity. Every strand, every weave, every loom beat holds a tale of resilience, reverence, and responsibility.

Whether it’s the golden glow of Muga, the soft grace of Pat, or the ethical warmth of Eri, Assamese silk tells stories of women’s hands, ancestral knowledge, and sustainable fashion.

At Kunbi, we are proud to be a part of this legacy. Explore our Ahimsa Silk Collection and take home not just a saree—but a story worth wearing.